Usually summers are time for punishment and heavy weather along the west coast of Norway. The temperature at midsummer is not far from the temperature at New Year’s Eve. But instead of slate one can expect rain and heavy wind.
This summer we blew north in a gail and passed Haugesund after a short night at Leirivk. Then we hugged the coast and turned starboard into the Hardangerfjord on our way to Rosendal. It was blowing 37 knots as we tied up in the yacht port at Rosendal!
That’s it. The rest of the summer was just incredible. We followed the coast up to Alden – den norske hesten – not far from Florø. I have passed this unbelievable rock several times racing from Bergen to Florø and each time it has looked as unhospitable as you possible can imagine. But there is a small port and it is indeed a quaint and hospitable island where the eagels soar and deer grace among the sheep.
We – that is my wife Ellen and I – hiked the 500 meters to the top and was met with a magnificent view and three eagles riding the thermic just 100 meters away.
As we were on the top of the Norwegian Horse (Alden) fog was rolling in and the wind turned from the South-West that pushed us up the coast to start blowing from the North. So we cruised by spinnaker up North, and hoisted the spinnaker going South. Still hugging the coast as close as possible and making the most of the scenery.
The Salt looks pretty small from the summit. However, there is a trail and you don’t have to climb to get to the top.
As we followed the coast going slow and close to the islands we anchored off Bømlo at Holme. This is Ellen’s family heritage. Holme is as weather beaten as you will find it with rocks and heavy seas everywhere. But beautiful and welcoming in sunshine and little wind. The small harbor provides easy access to fish and lobsters for the oldtime farmer-fishermen.
As you can see Ellen is performing yoga – or showing off yoga – at all possible and accessible points along the coast. Even in Bergen. By the way – Bergen in nice weather is just awesome and picturesque.
After Boknafjorden we turned South-East and enjoyed a few days at Byre. What a summer to remember!